At COUTUREtime in Las Vegas, I finally got a chance to see the 2018 collection from Montblanc. While the overall collection is varied and updated from previous years, what stood out to me was the 1858 sub collection, named for the 160 years anniversary of the Minerva manufacture that the pen, accessories, and watch brand acquired 12 years ago.
Montblanc Geosphere 1858 in stainless steel
The overall theme of the 1858 collection is mountaineering which works well for the brand whose name is literally the same as a famous European peak. First, my favorite is the Geosphere watch. A unique take on the multi-timezone watch this 41.5 mm round case with two balanced sub dials at 12 and 6 o'clock showing a rendition of the northern and southern hemisphere.
Each sub dial is surrounded with 24 hours markers divided into night and day. The rotating half globe represents the appropriate continent and indicates at a glance the time in the appropriate zone. It's an interesting complication since while beautifully rendered it is not a true world timer since there are no accurate indications of the zones, nor the representative cities of each zone, as is done typically.
Instead, Montblanc decided to mark the maps with red dots indicating the locations of the seven highest peaks in the world. A fitting touch for a watch meant for mountaineering though less useful for the general population. Perhaps adding white or black dots marking key cities around the globe and a list of the cities on the case back might help satisfy all.
There are two versions of the Geosphere. One in stainless steel ($5,600) and a limited version of 1858 pieces in bronze ($6,400) which should develop a nice patina matching the overall vintage look of the large luminescent filled numbers and distinctive cathedral hands.
Keeping the same overall design language with the dial minus the half globe sub dials and running seconds is the clean and simple automatic version. Coming also in stainless steel and bronze this version is the cheapest of the bunch at $3,105 in stainless steel with black or blue dial $3,415, whereas various versions of the bronze and steel version start at $2,670 for the 40 mm that includes variations with black and champagne dial. A larger 44 mm version with the same MB 24.15 caliber is set at $3,475
Montblanc 1858 chronograph in bronze
Finally to complete the collection there is a chronograph version, also coming in steel and bronze. This is a handsome vintage looking bi-compax chronograph. Unlike the other two models, for me the stainless steel with the black dial is perfect as it's not too vintage looking, while staying legible and useful. The fit of all of these models on wrist is brilliant due to perfectly balanced lugs and the well matched subtle brown calf strap. The stainless steel version goes for $4,300 and bronze model goes for $5,000.
The 1858 collection from Montblanc is not only a tribute to its Minerva division heritage and of its namesake mountaineering background, it's also a great example of how to re-introduce vintage looks in a modern setting. Using a manufactured MB-25 base with additional modules for the world timezone and chronograph, Montblanc also creates a useful dual time model (not shown) which starts at $5,100.
Finally, all the models discussed have an engraved caseback of the Montblanc peak with mountainering axes enhancing the Montblanc logo. A limited model of 100 with smoked green dial with matching green alligator strap and including a mono pusher chronograph has instead a sapphire caseback showcasing the wonderfully finished Minerva movement.
A tribute to the legendary 1920 caliber 13.20 and firmly asserting the long legacy of movement making that has perfectly woven into Montblanc to make it a serious contender for watch lovers looking for balanced mix of contemporary interpretation of tradition that is affordable and great looking.
More details, complete price list, of the 1858 collection are available online, including options to purchase directly and have it delivered to your house or picking up at your local Montblanc store. montblanc.com
The Tudor brand of watches is interesting. Not only because they are the watches from the “little sister” brand to the mighty Rolex, but because they have a design language onto themselves that many like and many don’t. While I don’t own a Tudor watch and not many of their models sing to my sensibilities and aesthetic, I always like to see what novelties they produce every year.
At the COUTUREtime show in Las Vegas, I had this exact opportunity. It’s not clear I left with a lust for any of their new watches, but what Tudor showed me was streamlined, strong, well priced, and overall desirable. Let’s take a closer look.