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Baselworld

Documenting my visit to Basel World 2018. I am scheduled to meet with over 15 brands and will be at various parties and meeting fellow watch enthusiasts. Visit often for latest news.

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Omega novelties first look

  • Baselworld Messeplatz 1 Basel Switzerland (map)

For 2018, Omega has decided to break previous tradition of a myriad of releases and instead introduced a limited set of new watches around their two primary collection: Seamaster and Speedmaster.

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First, as they have done yearly since the release of the popular "Dark Side of the Moon" black ceramic watch, Omega released a new version that they named Speedmaster "Dark Side of the Moon" Apollo 8. Celebrating 50 years since the Apollo 8 mission finally revealed the far side of the moon by giving us a glimpse at what is hidden there, this model's main feature are a skeletonized dial where the bridges and main plate have the moon surface engraved.

Using the original moonwatch manual wound 1861 calibre movement, the resulting watch is slimmer than the other Dark Side of the Moon watches but keeps the same 44.25 mm wide case. On wrist it just feels right. The dial has a lot of depth due to the laser engraved moon craters on various parts of the bridges which is revealed with the cut outs.

Even if you don't normally like skeletonized watches, this is one I'd say is worth taking a look at in person, as the result is well done and can be appreciated as an artful twist rather than a show of the mechnanics of the movement. The caseback also has a similar treatment with parts laser engraved; and to match the overall theme, the classic movement has been darken, so as to blend nicely with the rest of the watch.

One surprising touch is the yellow accents on the chronograph hands and at the tips of the indices. While reminding of Omega's Speedmaster racing line, the yellow touches actually work well here to add some liveness to an otherwise dark and matte color scheme. Completing the dial's design is the perforated strap (similar to the racing models) also with yellow rubber accents.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 m in tantalum with Sedna gold bezel and inner links

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 m in tantalum with Sedna gold bezel and inner links

Second, the new Seamaster Diver 300. Celebrating 25 years since appearing on the wrist of James Bond in GoldenEye, played by Pierce Brosman. The popular "James Bond" Seamaster is back. There are various improvements but the watch keeps its overall look and feel.

Some of the key changes immediately visible are the larger 42 mm case, a newer wave pattern on the dial that is more pronounced, and a redesigned helium (He) escape valve that Omega claims can be operated under water. Of course, the He valve is rarely useful, even for serious diver, so perhaps the advantage here is foolproofness.

Additional notable features are the use of the METAS-certified Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 which is highly antimagnetic and offers better chronometer performance than COSC and includes Omega's signature co-axial escapement. Also, now the movement is shown via a sapphire caseback which in the past was limited to only some of the previous models, such as the old Seamaster 300 m GMT.

There are 14 different variations on the Seamaster Diver 300 m, including the popular blue and steel model that is a direct descendant of the Bond watch with rubber strap as well as stainless steel bracelet, a black dial version, and one with steel and gold. Omega's site includes photos and specifications for each variations.

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The model I picture here is perhaps the one that is most notable. Limited edition of 2500 in tantalum with Sedna gold bezel and inner links on the tantalum bracelet. Got to try this model during the visit and the light feel of the tantalum was well balanced with the gold. 

The aspect that catches the eye is the contrast between the grey of the tantalum and the gold. Surely not in the taste of all, it is a combination that will attract those that wanting some bling with an otherwise subdued watch. I cannot say it was my favorite, but it clearly stood out as novelty.

Finally, in what was my favorite model this year from the brand from Biel / Bienne is the re-issued limited edition Omega Seamaster 1948. These are stainless steel models of the watches Omega released after the war that took cues from the watches they had produced for the British military.

Each watch comes with a beautiful leather case that contains a movable magnetic stand which can be used to show or store the watch. Under the magnetic plate, is a compartment with an additional NATO strap, changing tool, and place to store additional straps.

Omega released two models. My favorite is the one with small seconds at 6 o'clock with leaf domed hands on brown strap matching the box. The other model has dauphine hands and central seconds. While the second model includes a tiny sliver of Super-Luminova on the hands and indices, making it more usable, I dislike how diminutive the hour hand looks. It lacks balance with the minutes hands and does not do justice to the 38 mm case, which while small when compared to modern watches, actually wears quite well.

Both 70th anniversary models include a decidedly modern movement that is METAS-certified and has all the antimagnetic goodness, making the use of the magnetic box I mentioned before a worry free proposition. Additionally, the caseback has an engraving of a Chris-Craft boat and Gloster Meteor aircraft, with text noting the anniversary and numbered edition of the watch on the case.


Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the restrained number of models Omega decided to show at Baselworld. A change from last year's avalanche of variations and models that were introduced which drown the most hard core watch lovers. By focusing on a few models, the releases this year are more refined and covers enough of variety to give every fan of the brand a reason to consider an Omega watch if they are in the market to celebrate an important anniversary or for a special gift. See the entire novelties collection at omega.com.

Earlier Event: March 25
Romain Gauthier novelties first look
Later Event: March 26
Urwerk novelties first look