Longines is one of the few Swiss luxury brands today most associated with value. While having a long storied history, the focus of Longines is in producing watches with exceptional value, somewhat conservative designs, while having interesting features. At COUTUREtime in Las Vegas, Longines showed me two watches, one mechanical and one quartz, that I think exemplify this philosophy: the Master annual calendar and the Conquest VHP.
The first watch is a mechanical annual calendar. Part of the Longines Master collection, it is a simple classic stainless steel thin round watch with the day and date at 3 o’clock. If you glanced too fast you might miss the lettering on the silvery dial indicating that this is not your off the mill calendar watch but instead one with an interesting and useful complication: the annual calendar.
Invented by Patek Philippe in 1996, the annual calendar is a simplification of the perpetual calendar watch that requires calendar adjustment once a year, at the end of February. This means that if you wear this automatic watch everyday (or keep it wounded) you do not have to adjust the day or date as it will automatically keep track of months with 30 or 31 days.
The design is classic with beautiful silver-finished stamped “barleycorn” dial. The 40 mm case in polished stainless steel stands at barely 10 mm thick, making it the perfect dress or work watch. The alligator strap increases the formal appearance but I suspect it will look just as good on the many third party leather straps readily available on the internet.
But none of these technical or design characteristics do justice to the true value and achievement of this watch. Most annual calendar watches (even in stainless steel) start in the low $20K. Some rare brands have released some models in the low teens. And the only one I could find under $10K is Montblanc’s Heritage Chronometrie released circa 2015.
Longines L897.2 (ETA A31.L81) annual calendar movement
However, no major Swiss brands have released one in the $5K or under this price point. Well that’s exactly the value proposition of this watch, at $2,425 it is bar none the best value in an annual calendar watch. With it’s caliber L897.2 (ETA A31.L81) movement, with 64 hours of power reserve, which the parent Swatch group manufactures for Longines, this maybe the best value mechanical watch in a long time.
The second watch I want to mention, another great value from the brand, is the Conquest VHP quartz model. A sporty modern 41 mm watch with a unique tough quartz movement. VHP stands for very high precision and it delivers that in spades. Rated at +/- 5 seconds per year with a movement that requires a new battery once every 4 years and that can adjust itself if placed in a strong magnetic field or suffers a violent shake. It also includes a perpetual calendar adjusting itself automatically to show the correct date.
The Conquest VHP comes in various styling variations. There is a regular, starting at around $1,000, and the slightly larger (43 mm) chronograph model starting under $1,750. And for each there are variations on the dial coloring as well as strap options. These should do well as a graduate or father’s day gift to those wanting a good looking watch with very low maintenance and high accuracy.
Whether mechanical or quartz, Longines has a solid model to offer you. And all at a great value. First an unheard of annual calendar at under $2,500 which in my book wins the best value mechanical watch I have seen since writing about watches. Perfect for day to day work and good enough for the most dressy affairs. Two additional dial variations are offered: blue and black. And in addition to the black, brown, or blue alligator strap with triple safety folding clasp, there is also an option for a stainless steel bracelet.
Second, a fantastic high-precision quartz watch coming at around $1,500. With various color possibilities, the Longines Conquest VHP is ideal for new aficionados who has not yet been bitten by the watch collecting bug and simply wants a solid watch at a value price with a technical and accurate movement, while having very low maintenance.
Indeed, with these two offerings, Longines is trying to reimagine the entry-level dress and sports watch segments. Adding functional movements yet keeping the prices affordable, they are also redefining affordable luxury. And for a brand squarely positioned in the value segment, these put the brand in the driver seat. Now let’s hope they can make enough of these annual calendar to satisfy demands.
See details of the Master annual calendar and the Conquest VHP quartz on longines.com.
The Tudor brand of watches is interesting. Not only because they are the watches from the “little sister” brand to the mighty Rolex, but because they have a design language onto themselves that many like and many don’t. While I don’t own a Tudor watch and not many of their models sing to my sensibilities and aesthetic, I always like to see what novelties they produce every year.
At the COUTUREtime show in Las Vegas, I had this exact opportunity. It’s not clear I left with a lust for any of their new watches, but what Tudor showed me was streamlined, strong, well priced, and overall desirable. Let’s take a closer look.