Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the rare modern Swiss watchmaking brands that is independent, a true manufacture, and maintains its own design language for its watches.
Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette in stainless steel
Started by Michel Parmigiani in 1996 after 20 years experience restoring old clocks and watches, currently Parmigiani creates less than 5,000 watches per year. Even with such a small output, it is innovating on all fronts and keeping a common look and feel to its watches.
While some of its models elicit polarizing opinions, one model seems to be wildly loved by all. It is my favorite model and one of my all time favorite dress watch: the Parmigiani Tonda 1950.
What distinguishes the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 is its slim 8.2 mm high and 40 mm wide case with teardrop-shaped lugs that snug the wrist like few modern watches do.
The simplicity of the dial matched with the odd and distinctive delta-shaped hands with the oval Parmigiani logo marking at 12 o’clock give it the unique simple look.
Tonda 1950 in stainless steel with abyss blue opaline dial
Powering the Tonda is a gorgeous in-house micro-rotor movement that Parmigiani finishes by hand beveling and black polishing the plates.
The micro-rotor itself is adorned with a hand engraved nautilus-like pattern that makes it a charm to see as it spins. The sapphire caseback gives full view of the movement.
Parmigiani long-term partnership with Hermès means that many of its watches come with straps from the legendary French leather atelier. The alligator strap is subtle and is doubled with the patented orange calf skin, giving it a distinctive look off or on wrist.
Having tried many alligator straps from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Lange, IWC, and others, I can easily say that the Hermès straps on Parmigiani’s watches are the best in class. It’s as if they came pre-worn and for my wrist.
Parmigiani offers various versions of the base Tonda model. Mainly changing the precious metal of the case. So there are three gold models in yellow, white, and rose (my favorite). A limited model in platinum with black dial along with a skeletonize model were introduced over the years.
New last year with more variations this year is a stainless steel Tonda. These keep the same ethos as the gold models but are in the more affordable and durable stainless steel material.
Tonda 1950 Lune in stainless steel
Handling these Tonda felt no different than the gold models expect for the slightly lighter weight and knowing that they could take a beaten taken anywhere while showing no abuse.
But the best part of the stainless steel model is affordability. Whereas the gold models would start at just under $20K and up, the base stainless steel model has an entry price of just under $10K.
Parmigiani managed to also create a skeletonize steel model which starts at a bit over $22K but offers the same ethereal dial as the previous skeletonized precious metal models showing the gorgeous decorated off centered micro-rotor movement.
The complicated Tonda models are many and again have the distinctive Parmigiani design ethos. There is a dual time GMT model, a chronograph version, an annual as well as perceptual calendar models, and a few limited Tourbillon offerings.
On each model of the Tonda, Parmigiani also offers a variety of dial various including mother of pearl, different meteorite dials, diamond encrusted bezels and dials, as well as stone cut and hand painted model. See entire Tonda 1950 collection here.
Parmigiani is a brand that invites collectors looking for a classic watch with contemporary appeal that is in the realm of the affordable.
For me its the brand for the collector wanting a distinctive watch with in-house pedigree but who is tired of the mainstream brands or is not willing to shelve the high prices for the Swiss trinity or a Lange.
With the Tonda 1950 in stainless steel, Parmigiani achieves a new level of affordability while keeping the same pedigree that made it a connoisseurs’ outsider brand.
If the brand’s unique aesthetics were already pleasing to your tastes and senses, the stainless steel Tonda should remove any barrier to entry.
Go try one on at their boutiques in Miami, London, or Paris, or the many authorized dealers across the world and see if you can resist the temptation to make this your go to dress watch. parmigiani.com
The Tudor brand of watches is interesting. Not only because they are the watches from the “little sister” brand to the mighty Rolex, but because they have a design language onto themselves that many like and many don’t. While I don’t own a Tudor watch and not many of their models sing to my sensibilities and aesthetic, I always like to see what novelties they produce every year.
At the COUTUREtime show in Las Vegas, I had this exact opportunity. It’s not clear I left with a lust for any of their new watches, but what Tudor showed me was streamlined, strong, well priced, and overall desirable. Let’s take a closer look.