As the proud owner of the original Oris Carl Brashear bonze watch introduced a few years ago to celebrate the life and accomplishments of the Master Chief Diver at the dawn of navy atmospheric diving, I was initially disappointed that Oris had decided earlier this year to add another limited bronze watch to its lineup. My first reaction was: well there goes another watch brand over-capitalizing on a successful model, and diluting the value of their current customers.
The initial Carl Brashear model sold out quickly after being introduced at Baselworld 2016. I had to work hard to get a pristine used model and paid above retail for it. I still have folks offering me to sell the watch every time I take it to the local RedBar. Of course, besides the fact that I rarely sell my watches, this one is a keeper in my permanent collection. And later this year I will do a full review of the watch after I've had it for over a year this summer.
But back to Oris's new Carl Brashear. While I had seen the watch online and in various social media accounts before reaching Basel, my initial reaction upon seeing it and trying it on, was one of immediate relief. The good folks from Hölstein got it right again. The new Carl Brashear is a different watch entirely. Sure it carries the same limited edition and commemorates the same hero, the two watches are different, but cut from the same cloth, or more precisely metal...
For one the new Oris "bronzo" is a chronograph, with a 30 minutes counter at 3 o'clock and running seconds at 9. The pump-style pushers are also in bronze and so is the buckle as in the previous watch. The watch maintains the blue dial of the original but due to the bi-compax layout looks very different in person.
The new strap is more supple and matches better the watch than the original's rather hard calf skin strap. I still think Oris should include an additional rubber or NATO strap as part of the package, but the many options available online and at various small bespoke shops make this request moot, unless Oris would include the additional strap with another bronze buckle.
On wrist, the new Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph feels a bit larger, as it should, due to the 43 mm case. However, one of the reasons the initial watch was a hit was its usage of the same case design as the Diver Sixty-Five models which Oris had re-introduced years before releasing the first limited edition model.
The chronograph version uses another Sellita-based caliber, this time the SW 510 which beats at 4 Hz and offers a standard 48 hours of power reserve. Like the older model, this one is again limited to 2000 and is priced higher at CHF 4,700. I expect this to sell out fast as well. The patina developed quickly on my original Carl Brashear, so I'd suggest talking to your local authorized dealer if you want one in original condition so as to create the unique patina that your wearing habits and skin and sweat will create.
In addition to the limited Carl Brashear model, Oris introduced an interesting twist on the Sixty-Five dive watch model, by inserting bronze in the unidirectional rotating bezel. This decision makes sense as the location of the bronze insert is exactly where most bronze dive watches, including the original Carl Brashear, would start developing a patina. It's one of the locations that retains the most moisture, whether you get the watch wet or not. A perfect way to give new bronze watch owners a unique watch without having to create another limited edition.
Finally, perhaps the most surprising new watch from Oris this year is the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date bronze. What makes this surprising is not the case design, nor the Oris patented pointer date, since this is a model Oris has offered, in some variations, since 1917 when it introduced its first wrist pilot watch; what makes this model surprising is that it is offered in 36 mm and is targeted at the ladies market.
With a green dial which should nicely blend with the developed patina, the watch looks great on a man wrist or a delicate lady's wrist. It's not entire clear to me the thinking behind the smaller case, but it certainly will encourage those not able to secure the new chronograph Carl Brashear to take a look. The classic old-pilot design with coin bezel and large crown and cathedral hands will give this watch a true vintage look soon as the patina develops. And for some, the best part is that the Big Crown Pointer Date bronze is not limited and starts at CHF 1,800.
Oris is one of these watch companies that have chosen to do things differently than the majority. They consciously keep their products affordable, within the reach of most working person. I am constantly (pleasantly) surprised by how much I appreciate the watches they deliver and the new models they introduced. Sure, there are some models I would not recommend nor acquire. However, these are in the minority, and for this year, as a concrete example of what I mean, Oris has released a set of attractive bronze watches and has done so better than most brands.
While it could have been easy for Oris to release the same Carl Brashear and simply changed the dial's color, they have opted to make a release that is truly different. They maintained the same level of exclusivity yet kept the price reasonable. To help satisfy the unsatisfiable hunger and curiosity of watch nerds for the old alloy, they released new models (non-limited) and at entry-level prices. However, they also do so in a fashion that will not impede the collectors who made the initial Carl Brashear model a resounding success; and in doing so, will likely result in another sold out watch with this new model. Bravo and kudos to Oris! oris.ch
One of the winners in the 2019 GPHG awards in the first week of November was a two year old upstart watch brand from Kuala Lumpur named MING Watches. The young brand won best watch in the Challenge category at the Geneva show to the delight of its founder and watch aficionados who have regularly helped sell out the brand’s 11 prior releases since its debut of the 17.01 watch.
MING watches are not limited per we but are produced in small batches of a few hundreds, which in effect make them limited. A quick perusal to their web site shows that all models, except for the two new 2019 models have sold out. Interestingly the new models are also priced much higher than the previous ones. However, before getting ahead of ourselves, how does one go about seeing or trying on a MING watch?