Zenith is a brand storied with a tradition of mechanical innovations. Indeed it is the brand most associated with mechanical chronograph movements with the creation of the El Primero which, until recently, served as the heartbeat for many legendary chronographs, e.g., Rolex's Daytona and TAG Heuer's Carrera.
But something dire happen to Zenith in late 90's and early 00's. They introduced a series of over the top (some would say grotesque) watches under the moniker Defy. A simple Amazon.com search for Zenith Defy yields many of these watches, that no one wants, significantly reduced in prices. For a good laugh, read some of the innovative sarcastic comments left on the old models by folks all over the world.
This was in my view the brand's low point. Enter Jean Claude Biver (JCB) a few years ago, charged to revive the legendary brand and bring back the tradition of innovation. And deliver on this promise is what JCB did last year and continues again today. Building up on last year's new Defy 1/100 second chronograph El Primero 21 are a series of worthy variations and at least one truly remarkable model.
For those wanting something less technical, Zenith has released a blue dial Defy without the new chronograph movement and with or without a skeletonize dial. These models constitute the entry-level. While nice, I personally think you should skip these and instead look at the chronograph versions as they align best with Zenith's history and brand propositions.
First is the Defy chronograph in carbon. Super light with a skeletonize dial that is striking, modern, and cool. The new in house El Primero 21 movement is easily visible and admired. The 1/100 second chronograph is still legible and the gummy alligator strap complements the technical watch by making it easy to wear and adjust.
If the carbon model is not satisfactory or you are in need of more of a statement watch then the rosé gold version should be in your consideration. Brighter than the carbon version it includes the same technical movement and open worked dial.
And for even more bling is the diamond encrusted versions. Two models are available. First one with baguette diamonds surrounding the bezel and second one with diamonds set over the case. Either way, these diamond models will satisfy any bling needs or fit perfectly at the next rap star party, if that's the look you are going for.
Finally, and my favorite model, the Zenith Defy Zero G "Gravity Control". Going back to it's roots as an innovator, Zenith created a model that is fully skeletonize and maintains the same 44 mm dimensions as the chronograph but here focused on a novel way of dealing with averaging the effects of gravity on the balance wheel.
Unlike a tourbillon escapement that forces the balance spring in various axises, the Zenith Zero G creates a miniature gyroscope that will follow the force of gravity and use the various rotations to cancel its effects on the movement's timekeeping accuracy. It is unlike anything you have seen. Now once Zenith adds a chronograph module to the Zero G, consider me a huge fan!
It's not totally clear to me if Zenith has fully rebounded from its awful recent past. Rebooting a brand's failed model is difficult. Customer interests and sales in the next years will surely help answer that question. While I remain a fan and cheerleader on the sidelines, I also mostly appreciate where JCB and team is taking the brand.
Last year I was skeptical about reusing the Defy moniker, today, I can accept the name. However, I am also hoping for more focused releases, keeping prices affordable, and sustaining the introduction of cool new innovations. All of which Zenith seems to be doing. Now let's give it time.
If you have not seen the new Defy models in person I urge you to visit your local Zenith authorized dealer and try them on in person. You are sure to discover a bold modern watch with innovations that few other brands can offer at this price point. zenith-watches.com
One of the winners in the 2019 GPHG awards in the first week of November was a two year old upstart watch brand from Kuala Lumpur named MING Watches. The young brand won best watch in the Challenge category at the Geneva show to the delight of its founder and watch aficionados who have regularly helped sell out the brand’s 11 prior releases since its debut of the 17.01 watch.
MING watches are not limited per we but are produced in small batches of a few hundreds, which in effect make them limited. A quick perusal to their web site shows that all models, except for the two new 2019 models have sold out. Interestingly the new models are also priced much higher than the previous ones. However, before getting ahead of ourselves, how does one go about seeing or trying on a MING watch?